Lawn mower blades get worn out and require replacement occasionally to ensure that your lawn looks at its best. It’s simple to replace the blades. It is all you need are some basic tools and a few easy steps.
The best lawnmower blades are made from durable materials. They will be able to last for a long time without getting rusty. Blades should be strong enough to withstand extreme forces.
Deck Blade
The cutting blade is the most important component of a lawn mower. The blade is enclosed in a casing, called a deck. It is available in various sizes, shapes, and types. Each comes with its own specs and has to be able to cope with high-speed contact with grass, as well as other things.
Standard blades are curvaceous and can lift grass with a scissor-like action. The curved blade assists by dispersing clippings. The blade is not as powerful than a high lift blade and can be used on dusty or sandy terrain.
Cylinder blades, also known as reel blades, consist of three to seven helical blades welded in a cylindrical rotating reel. They’re typically used on reels and gas-powered mowers. This is the most popular type and it’s easy to change. Blades can be sharpened and balanced by a variety of lawn care or hardware stores for a small fee.
Standard Blade
A normal blade is a flat kind of blade for lawn mowers that the majority of people install on their lawnmowers. The blade is made to cut grass, but does not have any particular features, such as bagging or mulching. It has a low suction capacity and can be used on any kind of grass.
High-lift blades are angled at their edges which allow for maximum airflow. They create a vertical suction that brings the grass closer to the deck. It creates a perfectly defined appearance to your lawn. These blades can also be used to mow on sandy terrains.
If you opt to use these types of lawn mower blades ensure that the shear pin locating holes are correctly aligned with the center bolt hole in the mower. The blade may not sit correctly against the boss if not properly aligned. This could result in the blade deteriorating faster than expected. To make sure that the shear pins are placed correctly, it is recommended to consult the Manual lawn mower blade sharpener of your mower or parts catalog for the position of the holes.
Lifting Blade
They re-circulate air to reduce the likelihood of clogging on the mower deck while still providing the highest quality cut. The blades are curved upwards creating a vacuum that lifts grass and then delivers it into your bagging system or side discharge.
The lifting action of these blades can also improve the quality of cuts when it is used on a longer grass which is where a less lift blade may struggle to achieve an even cut. They are also ideal for those who like to mulch lawn trimmings. They can be used with either the 2-in-1 or 3-in-1 blade.
The only downside of the blades is that they require an engine that is stronger to avoid straining the motor. These blades are not suitable for sandy or dusty surfaces in which grit, sand and other debris can cause the deck to deteriorate more quickly.
Mulching Blade
A very popular option for those who do not use a bagger This blade permits the clippings to be disposed of, mulched or ejected out of the chute that discharges your mower. With bigger “wind wings” that are larger than the ones found on standard lawn mower blades these blades can create an efficient airflow under the grass clippings, ensuring they’re not kicked up into the air, and they are able to safely be discharged out of your mower.
Make sure you check the bevel of the mulching blade on your lawn mower to make sure that it’s installed correctly. The bevel is the slope that cuts across the edge of the blade. It should be facing downwards when you mow. If not the sharp edge of the blade could damage the deck of your mower. Be sure to ensure that the blade is not bent to an awkward angle. This can make it ineffective when cutting taller grass. This usually is an indication of a damaged blade.
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